9/9/2023 0 Comments Runway couture dressesMeanwhile there will be no need to remove layers against the heat in her pant suits-the trouser legs are split at the side from mid-calf to upper thigh. Viard’s new take on the summer tweed Chanel suit features a skirt that doesn’t quite wrap around and reveals a lace or jagged feather dress underneath. Sure enough, the jacket’s form was working as perfectly as Kuskus. “I like the classic Chanel,” added Veilhan, “and I like sport and it’s funny to think that the Chanel tailleur is something you can wear for playing golf, or riding a horse.” To prove his point, the show opened with Monaco’s Princess Charlotte, dressed in a Chanel jacket, riding the beautiful eight year old Spanish bay horse Kuskus (that would explain the sand runway), first in an elegant “collected walk,” then a canter. “In fact, I found some notes from Karl in Rodchenko and Malevich books that he always gave me-so many books and documents with notes on details that could be used for embroidery and so on. Me, I can’t do that! He loves Constructivism, that kind of thing which is so Karl!” she continued. “I love his work and I needed someone to work with for the sets-the way Karl did. “I always wanted to work with him because he did something for Chanel jewelry 15 years ago in Place Vendome, a great installation,” Viard said. To set the scene, Viard reached out to the artist Xavier Veilhan whom she met at the home of their mutual friend, musician Sébastien Tellier. “I was inspired by the ’20s a little-the feathers, the fringe,” Viard continued, “the feminine side of the Constructivists, the girl inside!” Definitely not your grandmother’s couture.“It’s a summer collection, so it’s very fresh, even with a lot of embroideries,” explained Chanel’s artistic director Virginie Viard during a fitting in the Chanel studios on the eve of the showing of her thistledown-light haute couture collection. Wijnaldum flashes skin from her shoulders to the crystal-encrusted tops of the black leather platform clogs that Area will be selling with their third ready-to-wear drop later this year. The rib cage pieces, embroidered with Swarovski crystals in India and assembled on Canal Street, look destined for the Grammys or concert stages, once IRL events ramp back up again.Ĭake dresses whose tiers are fashioned from duchesse satin fully panniered in tulle do take their cues, Panszczyk said, from the couture of Emanuel Ungaro, Yves Saint Laurent, and Cristobal Balenciaga, but the Area designers constructed them so they are open on one side. The designers, who are catholic in their references, said they were looking at the coin embroideries of Berber peoples for the jacket’s embellishments, as well as for a pair of delicate and quite dreamy dresses made from thousands of individually hand-finished circles of organza. Lee opens the lookbook in a black smoking, featuring extravagant metalwork trimming the cuffs. “Difference for us is a positive thing,” Fogg says. This is most certainly not old-world couture, with its strictly sample size casting. Their 14-look couture debut showcases that range, and their lookbook, which stars Precious Lee and Yasmin Wijnaldum, is a sort of statement of intent. In recent seasons, Fogg and Panszczyk have dazzled New York with collections that marry showgirl crystals and outlandish silhouettes with technically ambitious tailoring Beyoncé and Michelle Obama have become clients. “I’m quite confident in saying that if you looked at a Parisienne or a Roman Alta Moda brand, I feel like we’re operating on the same level of craft,” says Panszczyk, from Area’s Canal Street atelier. The duo recently restructured, dividing their output into ready-to-wear and one-offs, the better to give each category its due, but they believe that their made-to-measure work does indeed measure up. Technically, the New York–based designers are couture-adjacent even guests on the official schedule must be sponsored by members. Area’s Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk are among this new group. In this season’s couture collections, there have been plenty of gowns that speak in hushed, moneyed tones, but a growing cadre of newcomers-perhaps not coincidentally, many of whom are American-are making fashion for people who prefer to dress out loud.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |